3 Moji (face with heart eyes)

 

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I made pants. I made pants! Three times I made pants for me. And I like them. I am not really a pants-wearing person, apart from jeans. After fruitless searches for work pants that fit well (pre-sewing era) I basically gave up on them and made skirts and dresses my uniform, with a pair or two of tights to get me through the winter. But pants are more practical for the amount of inelegant sprawling on the floor I do around home these days (not to mention the odd bit of crawling demonstration).

 

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I went looking for a pants pattern that would be easy to sew and require little in the way of fitting. Since the jogging/sweat pants style is highly fashionable at the moment, there is lots of choice out there. I settled on Seamwork’s Moji mainly because I have heaps of their monthly pattern credits to use up.

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The first pair I made up in green cotton sateen that I seem to have bought metres and metres of for some unknown reason. These are a size 16 (all three pairs are) sewn as per the instructions except I added in understitching on the pocket facing top to make it sit more neatly and tacked the cuffs at the side seam so they wouldn’t fold down unexpectedly. I used some twill tape for the drawstring and grommets that were left over from bag-making.

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I really like the cuffs in this design; I feel they add a touch of formality to what is a pretty casual pant design. (When I showed a photo of these to friends, one responded “sweet pants” and the other “sweat pants?!”) I’m also extremely proud of the top-stitching on all three pairs – it was my first time using an edge-stitching foot and it sure makes things a lot easier.

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The only thing I don’t like about the green pair is that they feel a bit like they’re going to fall down all the time. It’s mostly paranoia due to lack of elastic, I think, because they haven’t actually fallen down any of the numerous times I’ve worn them. Nevertheless, I decided to make a few tweaks for the second pair – the floral number. I tapered the legs in slightly from nothing just above the knee to about 1.5cm at the ankle. And I used 12mm elastic in the waistband channels either side of the drawstring. This makes a huge difference in how secure they feel!

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The fabric is another cotton sateen, from Spotlight, and was a compromise choice after my husband vetoed the lairy blue and orange linen I had in my stash (it might have to wait until I’m back in a skirt mood again). I figured the greyscale print meant these would be loud pants in a muted kind of way. Right?

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I wore those two so much that I just had to make another pair. Even more so after I tried on this pair in Country Road and figured I could copy the details like the knee patches and elastic ankles. These are made in tencel, similar to what I used for my Alder dress, and I love the feel fit and how it drapes.

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Drafting the knee patches was very straightforward; they were folded at each end and top-stitched to the front pant pieces before sewing the legs up as usual. For the elastic cuffs, I extended the legs by two inches to give enough length to create a 12mm elastic casing and a bit of blousing above it. If I was doing this again I’d also add a bit of width to the bottom of the pant leg – there’s not quite enough such that when you take the pants off the elastic gets caught on your heel.

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I also decided last minute to do flat-fell seams but it turned out too fiddly in this somewhat slippery material so I settled for faux-fell – the side seams are overlocked and then topstitched. The waistband has a self-fabric tie and one inch elastic. It would work perfectly well without the tie, but I like the detail of it and the grommets.

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In conclusion: 😍😍😍

(Photo credits here are to my mum and Frank. I’m learning to be more opportunistic in getting blog photos done, otherwise they don’t happen at all.)