Double trouble: sewing for feeding mothers

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Here is what happens when a sewing plan gets all derailed but you end up loving the result.

I had intended to make another false-front McCall’s 6886 dress with this pixelated floral Art Gallery fabric. However, lately I’ve been thinking about what distinguishes RTW garments from home sewing and one of the things I’ve noticed is clothes in shops often make more judicious use of colour-blocking than what I think to do. While turning this idea over I made the previously mentioned nursing bra from the EYMM everyday essentials set. I liked the fit of it so much I decided to throw the previous plans for this fabric out and turn it into a colour-blocked dress using that pattern.

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The pattern includes mix-and-match pieces that mean you can make a bra, top, short dress, midi-length dress, or two lengths of half slip (or, I guess, skirts). This is a hacked version of the short dress pattern. The bodice is a straight XL, medium-cup from the pattern, although I created a front lining piece without the under-bust gathering. It’s attached on the inside with openings in the side seam so that if I don’t want to wear a bra I can have the option of adding some padding, like in a sports bra or swimsuit. Attaching the neckband to the bodice and lining so all the seams were hidden on the inside took more thinking and unpicking (and swearing) that it probably should have, but I got there in the end. If you want to attempt something similar, the key is to sew the neckband on before attaching the lining at the shoulders.

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The skirt part has many more modifications. Firstly, I added two or three inches of length to the short skirt (it was done on the fly and I can’t remember exactly how much now). From the highly technical “hold the pattern piece under your bust and see where it reaches” fitting method I decided I wanted a length in between the two offered. The shorter one is more intended as a slip or nightie, I think. Then I segmented off a waistband from the top of the skirt.

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Thirdly, I slashed and spread it from approximately the hip to give a bit more of an A-line shape. In doing this I don’t think I shaped the hem properly because it dips down at the sides (not particularly obvious in these photos) – next time I’ll make sure to actually measure the centre and side seam to check they’re the same length. The whole thing is sewn on the overlocker and I left the hem raw, though may yet sew it up.

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The construction of the dress is really neat because the pattern has you still attach the negatively eased bra band inside the top of the skirt at the waist seam, so you get a bit of extra support under the bust. It also suggests you could add thick elastic inside the bra band if you need even more support but I figured I’ll mostly wear this with a proper bra underneath so that’s not needed. The only downside is it’s extremely low cut (you can make it more modest by leaving out the gathering and instead overlapping the front pieces further). That mostly doesn’t worry me but after a few times tugging the bodice down to feed it can sag and show the top of my bra a bit. In the above photo I’m wearing it with a nursing singlet, which is a more workable fix as the weather turn colder.

That aside, I was so pleased with this dress that the next night after making it I carved out some time and made another!

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The floral fabric is a cotton jersey with pretty decent two-way stretch (or is it four-way? I’m never sure. It’s rather stretchy) and I used a watermelon ponte scrap I’ve had hanging round forever for the waistband. This black and white one is made entirely from ponte, apart from the neckband, so it’s a firmer fit. I didn’t have quite enough of the stripes to do the skirt as flared as the floral version so I (pattern drafters, avert your eyes) folded the side of the pattern piece at a slightly flatter angle as I cut it out. There’s some pretty boss stripe matching going on at the side seams; I’m proud of that. I used a thinner black jersey for the neckband because the ponte didn’t have the required 50 per cent stretch and left off the bra band. The hem is folded over twice and straight stitched. And… I didn’t change the thread on my overlocker so the whole thing is finished in pale green (the shop had no white), which annoys only me because I can see it down the neckline but nobody else can. I hope.

These are a great pair of summer dresses. Since they’re stretchy, they don’t really need ironing so are excellent for travelling (like, to Melbourne and Winchelsea/Dungatar) or throwing on in case of baby-related clothes malfunction. Perfect!

 

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