I made another dress … is anyone surprised? Actually, the surprise with this one is it’s something I’d had planned for ages. Pretty much my whole work wardrobe consists of shift dresses so I thought I’d another stretch one to the mix.
The pattern is New Look 6144, view D. I’ve made this pattern before, in a loose-weave cream linen shot with metallic gold thread, as a day-after-the-wedding brunch dress. I really love that dress but dislike ironing linen so I don’t wear it that often. Upon discovering all the ponte knit goodness at Spotlight at the start of winter I had a vision of this pattern with some colour-blocking to make it a bit more interesting.
The new design lines were pretty basic – I just cut the blue part about 15cm shorter than the pattern and then cut the sleeves and bottom part of the skirt from the black. Simple.
The pattern is a pretty easy sew apart from the first few steps, where you make that tricky neck detail happen. It took me the best part of an hour to get it sitting so I was happy and I’m still not sure it’s 100 per cent the way it’s supposed to be. Halfway through all that frustration I had a flashback to a year previously and having the same difficulty the first time round. Maybe the instructions need better explaining.
Once you’ve got that part out of the way, though, it goes together very easily. I decided after cutting to eliminate the zipper (hooray for pull-on comfy dresses) and just sewed up a centre back seam. All the insides were finished on the overlocker, even though the knit doesn’t really need it, and the sleeves and bottom are roll-hemmed on the overlocker and hand stitched in place.
There are just two things holding me back from straight-out loving this dress, one minor and one major. Firstly, it confirms that I hate facings. Ugh, they just seem to flip up all the time and get in the way. I’ve understitched and stitched in the ditch on the shoulder seams and the raglan lines where the sleeves attach to the bodice and the facings still frustrate me. So after this, lined bodices only (a declaration which got me into trouble on my next project, of which more later).
Second is fit. The linen version is a touch too large for my liking (all that ease!) so, knowing more about patterns and using a stretch fabric, I carefully compared my body measurements to the finished garment measurements rather than the suggested size ones. I can’t remember if I cut one or two sizes down from the first version, but it was smaller. A good idea in theory. However, it’s turned out a bit too tight. I tried to combat that by wearing it to work with bigger-than-Bridget-Jones’-pants underwear but instead spent the whole day worried its rolling down top was showing through the dress. Not a great outcome.
I intend to persist with rotating it through my wardrobe but it might get pushed to the back if the tightness continues to make me feel uncomfortable. A shame, but you can’t win every time.